TR6 Soft Top Installation Instructions
- 2″ by 42″ female half of velcro, cut to 1/2, 3/8, 3/8 strips
- 3/4″, 7/8″, 1 1/4″ – 1/4″ hip bolts (cut shorter from longer)
- misc nuts bolts and washers as necessary for frame
- snap rivets, 7 – Stainless Steel 1/8″ x 1/2″, rear exposed ones
- snap rivets, 13+ – Aluminum 1/8″ x 1/2″ (much easier to drill out)
- original equipment style buttons, and snaps
- Automobile upholstery spray
- 1/8″ titanium drill bit for drilling rivets
- snap tool for larger snaps, 1/8″ hole punch
- spark plug threaded top (several) or fine point rivet gun
- sharp awl
- 1/8″ hole punch
- 4 hours for the top installation
- 4 hours for frame rebuild (all frames need some rebuild)
- 4 hours for frame painting
- Remove 5 7/16″ bolts from inside rear window.
- NOTE: check to make sure some idiot hasn’t riveted the channel to the deck. If so, drill these out with the 1/8″ bit.
- Remove 6 side door screws and lift the top off car, help needed when removing the last bolts. Remove all the bolts you can with the top up and then lower to remove the last 2.
- Drill and remove all rivets.
- NOTE: Some repairs have used another size rivet, so move up to the next size bit and re-drill. Usually drilling 1/4″ deep and rotating the drill handle back and forth while drilling will pop the cap and allow the rest to be tapped through with a small punch. Use aluminum for all non-exposed rivets as they are much easier to fix your mistakes and put on a new top next time.
- Lay the frame partially folded, inside down on the floor. View from the rear and make both sides symetrical. It helps to have a second car to compare with. Trial fit on the car a few times. There are 3 bolts on each side, these should be replaced. I used hip bolts cut to length for all of these as the hip reduces the wear on the threads at the hinge point. It removes the slop in the joints.
- Sand rust, Navel Jelly, rinse, paint, dry overnight.
- Lay top inside on carpet, fold in half, outside out, align door edges, “white-out” a 2 1/4″ mark on front center.
- Fold in half, inside out, align rear window edges and door rear edges, “white-out” a 1″ mark on rear center, another 1/2″ mark on top of rear window bow stub, both sides.
- Place top inside up, firmly push rear channel in crevice at rear, double check, double check, punch hole from inside through channel, though outside layer. Insert snap, rivet, from outside through top, channel, inside layer, add washer and snap rivet (practice once first).
- Pulling out from center and keeping the channel firmly pressed into the crevice, repeat the prior step for the next one on either side of center, add foam rivet cover to 3 rivets
- Now get an assistant to help here, pull as much a humanly possible to each end and rivet the other 4 holes. This determines the amount of wrinkle in the rear window as well as how much you miss the door opening. Every 1/4″ counts. NOTE: you may read ahead to see what an advantage 1/4″ is.
- Bolt top to car with top over trunk, leave 2 outer channel bolts slightly loose.
- Slide strap