Bonnet Release Cable Broken! (TR4-TR6)
by Ken Streeter, with input from
Triumph Service Bulletins, 6-Pack, TRF,
Jamie Barnhardt, Steve Benelisha, Jim Bosley, Robert Carley, Shane Ingate, Larry Miceli, Robert Shaw,
and others from the triumphs mailing list.
A broken bonnet release cable on the TR4-TR6 can cause no end of difficulty in getting the hood up to fix the problem! This is a common problem in North American TRs with LHD steering, since the hood release cable is quite long and cumbersome, having been intended to be on the right side of the car.
However, before you dismantle anything, ask someone to push down on the bonnet near the latch area; this will remove any “reload” on the mechanism which may be you problem. Be careful and be sure to press the bonnet as close to the edge as possible to avoid the common dent in this area. If this works for you, the problem may be improper bump adjustment, over-adjustment of the latch pain, or, most frequently, lack of latch lubrication.
If simply having somebody push on the bonnet near the latch while operating it doesn’t work, the summer 1994 issue of the 6-Pack (TR-6 club) newsletter published a reprint of a Triumph Technical Service Bulletin dealing with broken hood releases. In summary, you will need to remove the glove box, to gain access to one of the holes through the firewall. (There are plenty of likely holes for the heater control, choke cable, etc.) You may want to also remove some of the heater hot air hoses to get more room under the dash. With a long screw driver, and lots of patience, you should then be able to reach and activate the lock release mechanism. It is somewhat difficult to see what you are doing, both when you are disassembling the under dash components, and then when you are trying to pry the hood latch open with the screwdriver. You have to visualize the operation of the hood latch i.e., in which direction it pulls to free the hood catch.
You also have to be careful with the screwdriver or pry bar, as you are close to the battery